19 April 2012, 27 N. Moore Street, Tribeca
As summer approaches, that means planning for the summer house share with our usual crew – Dan and Sul, Nick and Michelle, Diane and I, and Cliff with his date, Michelle. Dan and Sul offered to host a dinner at their new apartment in Tribeca and it was easily one of my most memorable wine meals ever. The food was prepped by New York Vintners and everyone brought a bottle of wine to share with the group.
We started off with a bottle of 1990 Louis Roederer Cristal to accompany the cured meats and cheeses:
62% Pinot Noir and 38% Chardonnay – floral nose with a crisp attack. Perfect balance of acid, yeast and stone fruit; incredibly smooth with a long finish. One vote for wine-of-the-night (Diane).
The second bottle of the night was a white Rioja, the 1991 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonio Gran Riserva Blanco:
Served at cellar temperature and reminds me of the “orange” wines of Friuli in it’s mouth feel. Earthy with mild oxidation and delicious as a pre-dinner aperatif.
With our first course of the night, a yellow beat salad with walnuts, was a Grand Cru white Burgundy, the 2002 Henri Boillot Batard-Montrachet:
Decanted just prior to serving. Floral nose but without the power I expected from a Grand Cru – heavy stone fruit and a touch of vanilla on the palate. Medium finish with good balance but hadn’t developed any tertiary flavors or complexity yet.
Our flight reds began with two red Bordeaux to accompany our pasta course. The first a 2000 Chateau Kirwan:
Full decant for 12 hours. To me, this wine is a great example of both its varietal and region. Full bodied, big dark fruit with a long finish – plenty of tannins and mouth grip at twelve years. I thoroughly enjoyed the wine but was a bit surprised that it was five people’s WOTN! (Dan, Sul, Michelle, Cliff, Michelle)
The next Bordeaux was a Grand Cru, 1986 Chateau Latour:
Full decant for 2 hours. Brown tinges on the rim, dark, earthy nose. Mild red fruit on the palate – has probably peaked at this point but had a subtlety due to bottle age that was missing in the first Bordeaux we had.
Our next red, along with the prime rib, was a 1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero:
Decanted into a clean bottle for about 12 hours before. Incredible nose – tobacco, earth and tar. Very sweet, red fruit on the palate – continues to have structure though with perfect integration of the tannins. Loved it – hands down one of the top five Barolos I’ve ever had. One vote for WOTN (Nick) and would’ve been mine were it not for the last wine we had.
With the dessert course, a 1989 Chateau d’Yquem:
Apricots, honey, elderflower and some spice. Impeccable balance and finish – just a perfect wine. My WOTN.
A perfect meal hosted by Dan and Sul. By the end of the night we were all full, happy and ready to pass out:
**** 1990 Louis Roederer Cristal, $450
*** 1991 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Riserva Blanco, $90
*** 2002 Henri Boillot Batard-Montrachet, $280
*** 2000 Chateau Kirwan, $75
*** 1986 Chateau Latour, $440
**** 1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero, $275
**** 1989 Chateau d’Yquem, $300